resin

DIY Spider Web Resin Tumbler

I love spiders and spider webs! I also LOVE Halloween! I know that spiders are not always everyone’s favorite but you have to admit they can create such beautiful and intricate webs. So inspired by their web art and the fact that I have always wanted to do the resin tumblers (*and that I was thinking of some great Christmas presents to start creating*) ~ Boom! the thought of combining the two popped into my head. I decided to create a Spider Web Resin Tumbler!

First you’ll need some supplies. Here’s a list of supplies I used to create this tumbler;

  1. 20oz Stainless Steel Tumbler: https://amzn.to/34sTydR
  2. Resin: https://amzn.to/2YtJugX
  3. Black Spray Paint: https://amzn.to/2Ql4Rwl
  4. Black Glitter: https://amzn.to/2FUMSLl
  5. Spray Sealant: https://amzn.to/32pVi53
  6. Electrical Tape: https://amzn.to/34vUxdo
  7. Thin Silver Nail Art Line sticker/decal: https://amzn.to/2EmJGHR
  8. Tumbler Spinner: https://amzn.to/34tRfan
  9. Sandpaper: https://amzn.to/34vBFv2
  10. Gloves: https://amzn.to/3humnua
  11. Cricut Maker Cutting Machine: https://amzn.to/3jcb2iQ

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First I used the electrical tape to tape off the bottom of my tumbler. I like using the electrical tape because you can pull on it and make a great seal to protect the bottom (and top if you like) of your tumbler from the resin or glitter. *Don’t forget to make a tab at the end of the tape for easier removal later*. Then I sanded the stainless steel tumbler to give the surface some grip that the resin can adhere to. Just a light sanding to make some scuff marks on your tumbler is all you need then wipe off the debris.

Next you will want to spray paint your tumbler a similar color to the color of glitter you plan on using. For this project I wanted to use black glitter so I spray painted my tumbler with black spray paint. I used short even spray bursts from the spray paint can trying to make sure I didn’t over spray and get drips. Make sure to cover the whole tumbler with your spray paint color (the parts protected by the tape will not be spray painted). After the paint has dried I did a very light sanding (*do not sand hard and take off the paint*). Just sand a little bit to give some tooth to the surface for the resin but be careful not to sand off the paint. Just be gentle and take your time. It doesn’t take very long to get a few scratches in the spray paint.

*Get 10% OFF your Entire Order of Lolivefe products when you use my code: Jenn10 Visit http://www.lolivefe.com to get your Jumbo or Mega Silicone Mat to protect your table top surface and create all your art and crafts on!!*

Prepare your surface for glitter time! I placed my Lolivefe Silicone mat down first to protect by table top and then placed a sheet of Parchment Paper over that to catch the glitter. Now it’s time to mix your resin. I used a high temp resin so it had a 2:1 ratio for mixing. Make sure to read the instructions on how to mix the resin you choose as they have different mixing ratios. I needed to mix two parts resin to one part hardner for mine. The nice part about using resin to adhere your glitter is that you have a longer working time to get all the glitter on your tumbler where as with spray glue it dries very quickly so you have to add the glitter right away and it’s more difficult I find. You won’t need much resin at all. I used a little less than 0.5 ounces so if you mix up 1 ounce and have a few pendants or other resin projects near by you can use up all your resin you mix no problem. I find whenever I’m using resin it’s good to have a few projects there in case I mix too much. This way I can make sure to use up all the resin I mix and none goes to waist.

*Tip* Use masking or painter’s tape to tape the inside of your tumbler near the top just in case you get any resin on your glove and it smears on the inside while your holding your tumbler.*

Make sure to wear gloves, I put my one hand inside the tumbler to hold it and use my other hand to apply a very very thin coat of resin to the tumbler over the black paint. Just spread it around the tumbler with your glove and make sure to get the whole tumbler covered. You will usually have an hour working time with resin so take your time and no rush. Once you’ve covered the tumbler with resin it’s time to add your beautiful glitter! I take the container of black glitter and pour it all over the resin on the tumbler making sure to get the entire tumbler covered. Give your tumbler a light tapping so the excess glitter falls off and check for empty spots. If you see some add more glitter. Let your tumbler sit for at least a 1/2 hour or 45 minutes and that’s when you will want to take the tape off from the bottom (and top if you taped the top) because it’s much easier to remove now than when the resin has completely hardened. You can also choose to place your tumbler on the tumbler spinner if you like but I did not find it necessary.

Now let your tumbler sit for at least 12 hours so that the resin and glitter cures to your tumbler. I just left mine over night till the next day. Remember to use the parchment paper to pour all the extra glitter back into your container to be used on your next glitter project.

Your tumbler is now dry and you will want to re-apply the electrical tape to the bottom (and top if you had before) to protect it once again. I gently tapped the tumbler so any extra glitter falls off and then I sprayed a clear glossy sealant over the glitter to make sure it stays in place. Now I grab my Tumbler Turner which I place on my protective Lolivefe mat and also used some parchment paper to protect over the bottom base of the spinner. Slide your tumbler onto your tumbler spinner where the foam holder part is sticking out. *I actually cut the foam from that came with the spinner in two as it made it easier to place the tumbler on and it was still super secure* Once everything is set up mix at least 1 ounce of resin. I used a little less than 1 ounce of resin to coat my 20 ounce tumbler so if you mix up at least one ounce you should be fine. Once it’s mixed turn on your spinner and simply apply a coating of resin to your tumbler. The spinner makes it really easy to apply your resin. I just used my gloves and went back and forth over the surface applying the resin and making sure I coated the entire tumbler. You will be placing more resin than when you first did the glitter as you want to coat over the glitter this time. Once your entire tumbler is coated with resin keep it turning and return approximately 1/2 hour to 45 minutes later to remove the tape at the bottom (and top if applicable). Now let it dry overnight or for at least 12 hours. It’s important that the tumbler keeps turning so that the resin will not pool and drip or dry funny hence the tumbler turner.

You now have a beautiful black glitter resin coated tumbler that’s ready for the spider web detail! I used thin silver nail art striping tape to create the spider web. I decided where I wanted the center to be and started adding the lines from there stretching them out in straight lines to the sides and around if need be of the tumbler. When creating the subtle “U” shaped parts of the web that connect from each line around in a circle I found it best to push with one finger down on the line tape and guide with the other hand into a subtle “U” shape. Cut the tape at the end of each section or as you need to. For the other side of the tumbler simply create your own line art design with the line tape to complete the line art all around the tumbler with the focus on the spider web on the front. See images below for inspiration.

I also cut a cute little sparkly silver spider out of vinyl using my Cricut Maker machine and applied it over the spider web art I just created. Once you are happy with your spider web and spider it’s time to add the final coat of resin to protect all that hard work of applying the line tape art. *Remember to re-apply the electrical tape to the bottom (and top if applicable).* Mix your resin for the final time. You will use approximately 1 ounce of resin for a 20 ounce tumbler. Place your pretty spider web tumbler on the tumbler turner and apply your resin using your gloves. Coat the entire tumbler making sure to get a good coating over all the beautiful spider web art you have created. You might find that you will need a second coat of resin if any of the tape is not flat and sticks up a little bit but you might also find that this final coat is enough. It all depends on how you applied your line tape. Now let your tumbler spin and make sure to return after 1/2 hour to 45 minutes to remove the electrical tape from the bottom (and top if applicable). Keep spinning and letting it dry for 12 hours or overnight. I then turn off my tumbler turner and carefully remove the tumbler. I let it dry for a further 24 hours to make sure that the resin is completely cured and rock hard before any use. Clean the inside of your tumbler and remove the masking/painter’s tape that you had put on the inside lip of the tumbler. Now your beautiful Spider Web Resin Tumbler is complete and ready for any hot or cold drink you desire!!

You can follow along with me making this Spider Web Resin Tumbler in my tutorial video!

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Acrylic Pour

Dream Catcher Acrylic Pour Painting | CraftyJenn

I’m always thinking of things and creative ideas. I just can’t turn my brain off sometimes and so I thought up this idea of adding a dream catcher into one of my acrylic pour paintings. I was super excited about this idea and since I had already been using embroidery in my paintings I knew that I could thread embroidery floss through the canvas/painting.

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So I started by creating an acrylic pour painting using my mixing formula which can be found in my Acrylic Pouring for Beginners eBook. This eBook will take you through the supplies, steps and everything to create an acrylic pour painting! After my painting was finished I cleaned the canvas off, coated it with a layer of Liquitex Gloss Varnish and it was ready for the dream catcher.

I had bought this metal hoop to support the edges of the canvas as I wanted my dream catcher to be in the middle so I was going to have to cut a circle out of the painting. First I flipped the canvas over so I can see the back and centered the hoop on there. I traced within the circle with a sharpie so I knew where to put the glue. I used some Super Glue Gel (it’s a gel format so it is not runny which is awesome!) and applied it around the circle I had drawn. Then I pressed the metal hoop down and voila! It was very secure as the glue dries very quickly. I placed the canvas face down on a self healing cutting mat and used a sharp Exacto knife to cut in the middle of the metal hoop. I cut a circle approximately 1/4 inch inside the hoop as I wanted to fold the edges over the hoop. I also had to cut directional lines out from the hoop to the hole every inch so I could fold it over and glue the edge down onto the hoop creating a smooth and beautiful circle/hole in the painting.

Now with the canvas right side up it was time to create the dream catcher 🙂 I was debating between some thin metal wire or Embroidery Floss but ended up using the gold floss as the color worked better for the painting. I started at the bottom and used a needle to thread the floss through the painting just outside of the metal hoop. I pulled enough floss through so that I could go around the hole creating the foundation of the dream catcher and then once I reached the beginning again I tied off the extra floss and tucked it under the canvas stretcher to use later.

I then took the larger spool of floss and worked the rest of the dream catcher going around and around creating knots in the center of each segment created. Once I got a few rows in I added a crystal and pretty teal bead by threading them onto the floss. The embellishments had colors that all went with the painting’s colors which were teal and gold. When I reached the middle and only a very small hole was left I added one last golden colored crystal and tied off the floss. It looked amazing and I LOVE how the dream catcher turned out!!!!

Detail photo of my dream catcher with the crystals & teal bead and the acrylic pour painting.

I was almost finished. As you know dream catchers often have beautiful feathers creatively strung below the weaved web. So I pulled the first piece of floss I had tucked away and used it to attach some feather details to the bottom of my dream catcher. I let them hang down from the hole and even lower than the canvas edge. I just glued the feather onto the floss and wrapped a bit of the floss around the stem of the feather to finish it off. One of the feathers I added a small teal bead to. It all came together and I was able to create a beautiful dream catcher inside my acrylic pour painting!!

The final art piece!

You can watch me create this artwork as I have created a video tutorial on my

CraftyJenn YouTube Channel!

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Acrylic Pour, resin

How to add a Resin Top Coat to your Painting

Hello my fellow artists! So you’ve created a beautiful painting that you are absolutely in love with and now you want to protect it with a top coat. Adding a Resin top coat to your painting will truly make the colors *POP* and bring the ultimate shine to your painting! Not only will it enhance your painting it will also protect the painting because resin dries into a super hard durable plastic surface that can repel water or debris and is super easy to clean by just wiping it and then buffing it with a towel.

You might be thinking well I’ve never tried resin and it’s super intimidating!! I know it may seem daunting but resin has come a long way from the old days when people used to use it to coat their wooden bar tops. Many of the new resins on the market today are much safer and can be applied indoors easily.

Now before mixing or adding any resin a good practice and one that I do is to clean off the painting surface so there is no silicone left on it. Even cleaning off any of your fingerprint marks which can leave an oil on the surface is good practice. I use a little bit of Isopropyl Alcohol on some paper towel and wipe the painting surface going over it once and making sure I do not go over the area I just wiped again until all the alcohol has evaporated. *Very Important* Do not wipe twice over an area on your painting with the alcohol. Wait until it has fully evaporated and then wipe again to get all the oil off your painting.

The next step after the painting is clean is to add a couple layers of Liquitex Gloss Varnish. I do this because if there is any silicone or oil left on the painting that I did not see I want to find it with the cheaper varnish than having the expensive resin get rejected. You simply brush on a layer of gloss varnish and let it dry. Check if there were any areas that did not get covered or perhaps were rejected. If so clean that area and apply another coat of the gloss varnish. Don’t worry about brush marks as they all disappear after you apply the resin. After a couple layers of gloss varnish your painting should be ready for resin.

Now you will need to support the back of your canvas before you can add the resin. There are two ways to do this;

  1. Cut Foam Board or cardboard to fit inside the wooden stretcher on the back of your canvas and then secure it to the back with tape or wooden pieces.
  2. Flip your painting so the back is facing up and pour a layer of resin over the back of the canvas inside the stretcher area. Add some sparkles in there or color to make it pretty and let it fully cure for a couple days. This will create a hard and solid surface that will support the front of the canvas but it does add extra weight and cost to your painting just an FYI. You can watch me use both these techniques in my CraftyJenn YouTube video at the bottom of this post.

Once you have secured a hard flat surface on the back side of your painting which will support the heavy resin you want to apply to the front it’s time to use some painter’s tape and tape off the underneath edges of your painting. This will make it so much easier to remove the dried resin drips later. In this photo you can see where to apply the painter’s tape and you will also see the resin I applied to the back of the canvas with sparkles in it.

Art_202005040008-Edit

Now flip it over and prep your working area. Make sure to protect your table top with some plastic or a silicone mat (resin does not stick to silicone). I use these painter’s triangles to prop my painting up off the table surface so that when the resin drips off the edges it will not pool and create an even bigger headache when dries stuck to the bottom side. 

I use Art Resin for top coating my paintings and it’s super safe. It’s non-toxic, no fumes, no VOCs, no solvents and non-flammable. It dries crystal clear so my paintings shine through! Art Resin is also very easy to mix with a 1:1 ratio. That means you mix one part resin to one part hardener. Art Resin also has a wonderful calculator on their website so you just enter the dimensions of your painting and it will tell you how much resin you need to coat the top of it. Here’s a link to the calculator: https://www.artresin.com/pages/calculator

Once you have the total amount of resin you divide the number by two and that is how much you will need of each the resin and the hardener. Then to measure out the amounts you can either use a graduated cup or a scale. This painting is a 10×20 inch canvas so I needed 7 ounces of resin. Divide that by two and I need 3.5 ounces of resin and 3.5 ounces of hardener. Now to make things easier I just mixed up 8 ounces and used 4 ounces of resin and 4 ounces of hardener which was easier to measure out in the cup. Mixing one ounce more of resin will not hurt your painting. Better to mix more than not enough. When mixing make sure to wear gloves and I use a Popsicle stick and stir slowly until the cloudiness of the mixing process turns clear. You have a fairly long working time with Art Resin, like 45 minutes to an hour, so don’t rush.

Once you have fully mixed your resin it’s time to pour it onto your artwork! Don’t be afraid it’s going to be amazing!! Pour all your clear shinny resin onto your painting and move it all over the surface with either the Popsicle stick or your gloves. There are special spreaders but if you don’t have one these will work fine. Make sure to cover the surface and even the sides. You will find that lots of the resin drips off the sides but this is okay and always happens. Now get your craft torch and holding it above the surface so that the flame does not touch the resin but rather use the heat of the flame to pop any bubbles that have formed. You might have to do this a few times as the bubbles will make their way to the surface of the resin. After coating the resin I will go back and check on the piece a few times until I no longer see any bubbles.

You will need to cover your newly coated painting with a dust protector which can be a box that is larger that your painting. Just place it over the whole work area and let everything cure. The next day after the curing time is up take the dust protector off and Voila!!! A beautifully resin coated painting!!

You can watch me go through the entire process in my CraftyJenn YouTube video here;

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