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Acrylic Pour

Dream Catcher Acrylic Pour Painting | CraftyJenn

I’m always thinking of things and creative ideas. I just can’t turn my brain off sometimes and so I thought up this idea of adding a dream catcher into one of my acrylic pour paintings. I was super excited about this idea and since I had already been using embroidery in my paintings I knew that I could thread embroidery floss through the canvas/painting.

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So I started by creating an acrylic pour painting using my mixing formula which can be found in my Acrylic Pouring for Beginners eBook. This eBook will take you through the supplies, steps and everything to create an acrylic pour painting! After my painting was finished I cleaned the canvas off, coated it with a layer of Liquitex Gloss Varnish and it was ready for the dream catcher.

I had bought this metal hoop to support the edges of the canvas as I wanted my dream catcher to be in the middle so I was going to have to cut a circle out of the painting. First I flipped the canvas over so I can see the back and centered the hoop on there. I traced within the circle with a sharpie so I knew where to put the glue. I used some Super Glue Gel (it’s a gel format so it is not runny which is awesome!) and applied it around the circle I had drawn. Then I pressed the metal hoop down and voila! It was very secure as the glue dries very quickly. I placed the canvas face down on a self healing cutting mat and used a sharp Exacto knife to cut in the middle of the metal hoop. I cut a circle approximately 1/4 inch inside the hoop as I wanted to fold the edges over the hoop. I also had to cut directional lines out from the hoop to the hole every inch so I could fold it over and glue the edge down onto the hoop creating a smooth and beautiful circle/hole in the painting.

Now with the canvas right side up it was time to create the dream catcher 🙂 I was debating between some thin metal wire or Embroidery Floss but ended up using the gold floss as the color worked better for the painting. I started at the bottom and used a needle to thread the floss through the painting just outside of the metal hoop. I pulled enough floss through so that I could go around the hole creating the foundation of the dream catcher and then once I reached the beginning again I tied off the extra floss and tucked it under the canvas stretcher to use later.

I then took the larger spool of floss and worked the rest of the dream catcher going around and around creating knots in the center of each segment created. Once I got a few rows in I added a crystal and pretty teal bead by threading them onto the floss. The embellishments had colors that all went with the painting’s colors which were teal and gold. When I reached the middle and only a very small hole was left I added one last golden colored crystal and tied off the floss. It looked amazing and I LOVE how the dream catcher turned out!!!!

Detail photo of my dream catcher with the crystals & teal bead and the acrylic pour painting.

I was almost finished. As you know dream catchers often have beautiful feathers creatively strung below the weaved web. So I pulled the first piece of floss I had tucked away and used it to attach some feather details to the bottom of my dream catcher. I let them hang down from the hole and even lower than the canvas edge. I just glued the feather onto the floss and wrapped a bit of the floss around the stem of the feather to finish it off. One of the feathers I added a small teal bead to. It all came together and I was able to create a beautiful dream catcher inside my acrylic pour painting!!

The final art piece!

You can watch me create this artwork as I have created a video tutorial on my

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Acrylic Pour, resin

How to add a Resin Top Coat to your Painting

Hello my fellow artists! So you’ve created a beautiful painting that you are absolutely in love with and now you want to protect it with a top coat. Adding a Resin top coat to your painting will truly make the colors *POP* and bring the ultimate shine to your painting! Not only will it enhance your painting it will also protect the painting because resin dries into a super hard durable plastic surface that can repel water or debris and is super easy to clean by just wiping it and then buffing it with a towel.

You might be thinking well I’ve never tried resin and it’s super intimidating!! I know it may seem daunting but resin has come a long way from the old days when people used to use it to coat their wooden bar tops. Many of the new resins on the market today are much safer and can be applied indoors easily.

Now before mixing or adding any resin a good practice and one that I do is to clean off the painting surface so there is no silicone left on it. Even cleaning off any of your fingerprint marks which can leave an oil on the surface is good practice. I use a little bit of Isopropyl Alcohol on some paper towel and wipe the painting surface going over it once and making sure I do not go over the area I just wiped again until all the alcohol has evaporated. *Very Important* Do not wipe twice over an area on your painting with the alcohol. Wait until it has fully evaporated and then wipe again to get all the oil off your painting.

The next step after the painting is clean is to add a couple layers of Liquitex Gloss Varnish. I do this because if there is any silicone or oil left on the painting that I did not see I want to find it with the cheaper varnish than having the expensive resin get rejected. You simply brush on a layer of gloss varnish and let it dry. Check if there were any areas that did not get covered or perhaps were rejected. If so clean that area and apply another coat of the gloss varnish. Don’t worry about brush marks as they all disappear after you apply the resin. After a couple layers of gloss varnish your painting should be ready for resin.

Now you will need to support the back of your canvas before you can add the resin. There are two ways to do this;

  1. Cut Foam Board or cardboard to fit inside the wooden stretcher on the back of your canvas and then secure it to the back with tape or wooden pieces.
  2. Flip your painting so the back is facing up and pour a layer of resin over the back of the canvas inside the stretcher area. Add some sparkles in there or color to make it pretty and let it fully cure for a couple days. This will create a hard and solid surface that will support the front of the canvas but it does add extra weight and cost to your painting just an FYI. You can watch me use both these techniques in my CraftyJenn YouTube video at the bottom of this post.

Once you have secured a hard flat surface on the back side of your painting which will support the heavy resin you want to apply to the front it’s time to use some painter’s tape and tape off the underneath edges of your painting. This will make it so much easier to remove the dried resin drips later. In this photo you can see where to apply the painter’s tape and you will also see the resin I applied to the back of the canvas with sparkles in it.

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Now flip it over and prep your working area. Make sure to protect your table top with some plastic or a silicone mat (resin does not stick to silicone). I use these painter’s triangles to prop my painting up off the table surface so that when the resin drips off the edges it will not pool and create an even bigger headache when dries stuck to the bottom side. 

I use Art Resin for top coating my paintings and it’s super safe. It’s non-toxic, no fumes, no VOCs, no solvents and non-flammable. It dries crystal clear so my paintings shine through! Art Resin is also very easy to mix with a 1:1 ratio. That means you mix one part resin to one part hardener. Art Resin also has a wonderful calculator on their website so you just enter the dimensions of your painting and it will tell you how much resin you need to coat the top of it. Here’s a link to the calculator: https://www.artresin.com/pages/calculator

Once you have the total amount of resin you divide the number by two and that is how much you will need of each the resin and the hardener. Then to measure out the amounts you can either use a graduated cup or a scale. This painting is a 10×20 inch canvas so I needed 7 ounces of resin. Divide that by two and I need 3.5 ounces of resin and 3.5 ounces of hardener. Now to make things easier I just mixed up 8 ounces and used 4 ounces of resin and 4 ounces of hardener which was easier to measure out in the cup. Mixing one ounce more of resin will not hurt your painting. Better to mix more than not enough. When mixing make sure to wear gloves and I use a Popsicle stick and stir slowly until the cloudiness of the mixing process turns clear. You have a fairly long working time with Art Resin, like 45 minutes to an hour, so don’t rush.

Once you have fully mixed your resin it’s time to pour it onto your artwork! Don’t be afraid it’s going to be amazing!! Pour all your clear shinny resin onto your painting and move it all over the surface with either the Popsicle stick or your gloves. There are special spreaders but if you don’t have one these will work fine. Make sure to cover the surface and even the sides. You will find that lots of the resin drips off the sides but this is okay and always happens. Now get your craft torch and holding it above the surface so that the flame does not touch the resin but rather use the heat of the flame to pop any bubbles that have formed. You might have to do this a few times as the bubbles will make their way to the surface of the resin. After coating the resin I will go back and check on the piece a few times until I no longer see any bubbles.

You will need to cover your newly coated painting with a dust protector which can be a box that is larger that your painting. Just place it over the whole work area and let everything cure. The next day after the curing time is up take the dust protector off and Voila!!! A beautifully resin coated painting!!

You can watch me go through the entire process in my CraftyJenn YouTube video here;

If you are interested in any supplies for this project, acrylic pour painting, art, watercolor or resin please visit my CraftyJenn Amazon Store here: https://www.amazon.com/shop/craftyjenn

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Acrylic Pour

Cover a Journal or Book with a Paint Skin

Hello beautiful people!

Here’s a creative way to use up your leftover paint skins. Firstly, what’s a paint skin? Well if you do Acrylic Pour Painting you know it uses a lot of paint and most of that paint drips or falls over the sides of the canvas pooling on the protected surface.

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I like to make sure I use up all my paint so I don’t waist any so all the paint the falls off the edge I keep and pool it all together to create a paint skin. I drag all the paint into one large pool and let it dry completely. The cells will form and grow as it spreads out a bit and then when it dries you have a beautiful manipulable paint skin! Here’s a few examples;

*Pro Tip* ~ To keep your paint skins from drying out and usable in the future layer them between sheets of parchment paper. I do this with mine and they never dry out nor do they become brittle. They keep their elasticity and even after years they are still usable and workable.*

Once you have a few paint skins or several you’ll want to find ways to use them up. There are lots of different options like creating jewelry, art cards, covering ornaments, etc… but one of my favorite things to do is to cover a sketch book or journal with the paint skin.

Paint skins can stretch slightly so they are great to use to cover a journal. I use Mod Podge to glue the paint skin to the book starting in the middle with the spine of the book and then working it over the front and back. Even if your paint skin does not cover the entire cover think about maybe leaving the raw edge of the paint skin showing on the front and back as I did in this cover where I left the four corners of the black sketch book showing. I LOVE how this one turned out!!

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Of course if you have a large paint skin you can cover the whole book like in this one I created a few year ago. I just LOVE how all the cells and colors of the paint skin shine on the cover!!

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After I cover the outside cover I cut the excess paint skin along the edges so there is enough left to fold over the edge and glue to the inside of the cover. I use a piece of card stock cut to fit on the inside cover and inside back to hide the edges of the folded over paint skins. You could also use the first and last page to hide the cut edges by gluing it to the inside over the cover.

If you would like to watch a detailed video of how I cover the journal with a paint skin you can watch my videos on my CraftyJenn YouTube channel! Here are two videos where I show you how to cover a journal, one has an elastic band to hold the journal closed and the other is a sketch book.

 

If you are interested in how to create an Acrylic Pour Painting so you can start creating paint skins as well I have an eBook for beginners that explains my mixing formula to get these great cells. Here’s the link: http://craftyjenn.mybigcommerce.com/acrylic-pouring-for-beginners/

If you need any supplies for Acrylic Pour Painting or other Art mediums like watercolors and resin here’s a link to my CraftyJenn Amazon Store: https://www.amazon.com/shop/craftyjenn I make a small commission at no extra cost to you and it helps me out so I greatly appreciate you using my links!!

I hope you have a blast using your paint skins to cover you unique books, journals and sketch books! Create beautiful covers and have fun!!

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